Tuesday, December 30, 2008

Roto-Vegas

Our next stop, ever so brief as it was, was in Rotorua which the locals have nicknamed "Roto-Vegas". It's really one of the only places in New Zealand where natural beauty is surpassed by built up concrete structures and shopping excess... not really the kind of place you'd want to find yourself for days on end - at least not us!

We went for one night only to see a traditional Maori show with the Haka (the warrior dance) and participate in the Hangi (traditional stone roasted feast). I know, how traditional could it be in a town called Roto-Vegas...? Probably not so much, but they did explain a great deal about Maori culture, weaponry, and dance... and it was run by a family. It was hard to take pictures from the darkened place where we sat, but you get the idea. Very ferocious warriors and women wrapped in pelts...

The property was magnificent and had been in the family for generations and generations. There was an amazing natural spring fed pond and stream that was so clear you could see everything in it - including the water bubbling up. The stone pathways wove through groves of old trees, ferns and greenery and family members explained the medicinal uses of the vegetation. Did you know that Maori tattoos originally were made from homemade ink... well, let me explain. Apparently the Maori used to starve a dog for a couple weeks, feed them some kind of nut to make them poo, and the resulting black excretion was used to dye their skin. They'd carve into their faces with knives, rub the black goo into the wounds, and then let it heal... doing this for years and years until they had a full face of very dark markings. At this show they use makeup... do you think the ladies would really have that on their faces or Covergirl?

For the Hangi, the Maori bury hot rocks in a hole with water (to create the steam), lamb, chicken, potatoes, and kumara (their sweet potatoes) and let them smoke underground for hours. Here was our feast after it was unearthed. In my family, cooking for people was how you showed them that you loved them. If you love them back, you'll eat seconds, thirds... you'll let gluttony ensue to show your love. Well, we love the Maori.

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